On the outskirts of Anyang lies the Tomb of Yuan Shikai (Yuán Shìkǎi Mù, 袁世凯墓), an ambitious Henan-born military leader who became both the first president and, later, the self-proclaimed but little-respected last emperor of China.

Designed in the style of Ming-Qing Dynasty tombs, "Yuan Forest" (Yuán Lín, 袁林), as the tomb is also known, takes visitors along a path through a memorial gateway, a statue-lined walkway, a second courtyard and finally to the tomb mound itself.

Though not as elaborate as the tombs of previous emperors, the elements of Yuan's tomb are based on the same architectural concepts and feature a similar array of pavilions, statuary, gardens, steles and elaborately painted building eaves.

The life of Yuan Shikai (1859-1916) is detailed through photos and personal items in the site's museum, though English is not included in the descriptions.

Born into a successful family, Yuan built up the Beiyang Army as the governor-general of Hebei under the ill-fated Qing Dynasty and sought to modernize local government. After serving the Qing in Korea, he was transferred to Beijing during a period of intense intrigue. Various factions maneuvered for control over China as it became increasingly clear that the ascendent Nationalists under Sun Yat-sen were becoming a viable challenger against the old imperial order, which was barely controlled by the reactionary Empress Dowager Cixi.

Yuan was removed from office in 1909 and remained in Anyang, feigning illness and biding his time. As the Qing's reign disintegrated, its leaders worried about Yuan's powerful Beiyang Army in addition to encroaching European, American and Japanese forces and the surging Nationalist Kuomintang.

In response to demands made by generals who had abandoned the Qing to back popular demands for representative government, the Qing formed a provisional national assembly, which elected Yuan its provisional premiere. Yuan was also offered a similar overture from Sun Yat-Sen in the nascent Kuomintang government in Nanjing.

Representatives of the hapless boy emperor Puyi—who had been easily dominated by the imposing Cixi—entered negotiations with Yuan that resulted in Puyi's abdication in 1912, marking the end of both the Qing and, though it wasn't entirely clear at the time, the end of direct dynastic rule over China. After much intrigue and the assassination of a key rival, Yuan was elected president.

Yuan consolidated his power over the parliament by rewriting some of the new laws and purging Sun Yat-sen's Kuomintang. With his new power, Yuan initiated a number of reforms and, based on his belief that China needed a strong ruler, he convened a special assembly to declare him emperor of China. He was inaugurated on January 1, 1916, but quickly lost support, both domestically and abroad before dying of uremia (kidney failure) in June of that year.

Also to be found on the grounds of the tomb is a jeep once driven by Mao Zedong. The last one in your group to spot it buys drinks at dinner.

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