A tributary that meets the Yangzi in Xirangkou, Hubei province, the name Shennong Stream (Shennong Xi) is a little misleading—water levels have risen a staggering 155 meters since 2006 and the construction of the Three Gorges Dam. It is only 15km upstream that the depth diminishes and Shennong Xi returns to its original depth of 30-80cm. 60 miles long, it originates in the Shennongjia Nature Reserve from which the waters flow crystal clear and unpolluted.

Despite losing much of the magnificent height of the towering limestome cliffs that once borderd each side, the scenery downstream is still spectacular. Surrounded by strangely shaped peaks and lush greenery, it offers a more primeval feel than you'll get from the generic Three Gorges experience.

Located in Badong County, a region whose long history dates back to the Warring States period (BC 403-221), signs of early civilization here come in the fascinating form of "hanging coffins." These carved wooden coffins were stowed in clefts in the limestone rock, 25 to 70 meters above the original water level and 150 meters from the cliff tops—it remains a mystery as to how they were placed there.

Unfortunately most of these have now been lost or destroyed by the rising water, but the majesty of the landscape and the romance of the region's rich past shine through here and there if you take the time to explore.