Lugou Bridge—known better to Western history books as the Marco Polo Bridge—is somewhat of an enigma. The bridge pre-dates Polo's visit by almost 100 years and is adorned with hundreds of stone lions, each in a unique pose and all carved at various times throughout China's imperial history, from the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234 AD) to the Qing (1644-1911). Adding to its mystique is a discrepancy about the actual number of lions (counts of the "countless" sculptures run between 482 and 496, with historical records claiming that there were once 627). The bridge is also where modern China crossed into one of its greatest times of crisis, marking the beginning of the Sino-Japanese War (1937-1945), a tumultuous period that ultimately led to civil war and the establishment of the People's Republic. Finally, and perhaps most portentously, it's a bridge over a vanished river—the Yongding's waters are no more, having been diverted to quench the thirst of resource-hungry Beijing. Located about 15 km (9.3 miles) southwest of Beijing proper, the bridge dates back to 1189 and has been expanded several times, most recently in 1969. Its white marble, elegant arches and charming lions make it a sight to see in and of itself. The added weight of history makes it a haunting site, even as everyday bicycle and pedestrian traffic courses over the ancient span. Marco Polo brought fame to the bridge in the 13th century, describing it in his writings as one of the world's finest. The great Qing emperor Qianlong (1711-1799) consecrated it in 1698 with his calligraphy, praising the "morning moon over Lugou" as one of Beijing's finest sights. The bridge and its pride of stone lions—some are fierce, some playful, many are miniatures carved into larger ones—witnessed the passing of dynasties and, finally, imperial China. Japan, taking advantage of its weakened neighbor, provoked the 1937 Marco Polo Bridge incident, in which Japanese soldiers attacked a detachment of Chinese, setting in motion a bloody conflict that wouldn't come to an end until 1945. The war is commemorated in the nearby Memorial Hall of the War of Resistance Against Japan. Other nearby sights include the ancient walled town of Wanping, Wanping Castle and Daiwang Temple.