The Hui Muslims are considered peaceful, commercially-oriented citizens of the People's Republic, but that wasn't always the case. Lanzhou and some of the surrounding counties were areas of intense, bloody conflict between the independent-minded Muslims and the government militias and regualr troops.

In the late Qing Dynasty, the hostilites exploded in a rebellion to Qing rule centered in Hezhou, Linxia County. The Muslim rebels fought with Han loyalists and the government for years, until finally agreeing to a ceasefire that drew lines of control between the Muslims and the Han that have remained to this day.

Linxia has become the stronghold—the summer retreat if you will—for Muslims around Gansu and Lanzhou. The city never truly fell to government forces and although Hui and Han live as neighbors today, there is no question that this is a Muslim town and county.

There are dozens of mosques and several bazaars, including a fun antique market in the city and the food is 100% lamb and bread like it should be in a dry, Arab-influenced community. 

The valley floor and the river are picturesque, with ocher brown to red cliffs and visible erosion stratifying the banks and hills. There is a Taoist temple atop the hill behind town, demostrating that, of all other religions, Taoism is the easiest to get along with... even Muslims can chill with them.

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