For years, the last bastion of the Old Shaocheng part of Chengdu were the the Qing Dynasty homes of the Imperial officials and soldiers, known more recently as Kuan-Zhai Xiangzi (Kuānzhǎi Xiàngzi, 宽窄巷子 ).

Prior to the Qing's fall from power, access to Shaocheng—the neighborhood around the narrow walkways and the old Imperial palace which was demolished and replaced by Tianfu Plaza—was restricted to the Eight Banners of the Manchu nobility. Many centuries from becoming the dominant ethnicity in China, both in terms of numbers and political influence, Han Chinese were not allowed to conduct business or live in the area. 

After the founding of the Republic and during the upheaval of the civil war, the control of Kuan-Zhai Xiangzi was turned over to the powerful and rich Nationalist government in the area.

After they were defeated by the Communists, the area was handed over to the People; for the next 50 years they became home to the families most in need. The massive Qing-era mansions were divided up, and the once-grand single family homes, decorated with chandeliers and artwork, became noodle shacks, teahouses and homes decorated more with smoked pork and laundry lines than fine art.

Five years ago, the local government decided to turn the neighborhood on its head and renovate the two alleys along the lines of Shanghai's Xintiandi, displacing many of the families who had lived there for years. The run-of-the-mill tourism street that has invaded and occupied so many old parts of cities in China conquered Shaocheng in late 2008, much to the dismay of tradition-loving tourists and locals alike. 

Now, the two alleys are a string of trinket stands, fancy restaurants and teahouses, home to more than one major international chain and a few art dealers. The streets are now clean and beautiful but much of their original charm has departed with the dust. Despite much of the new architecture emulating or reusing the pre-existing edifices, it is a changed place.

Regardless of how you might feel about the blisteringly fast redevelopment of China, the wide and narrow alleys of Kuan and Zhai Xiangzi, located just a few blocks away from People's Park, are a nice place to stroll, have a couple snacks and drink a cup of tea. But while you are there and enjoying your modern day conveniences, remember its history and where it came from. Chinese history is fascinating, and in a content state of flux; Kuan-Zhai Xiangzi is but a small piece of a much greater, epic story.

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