Lhasa's premier temple, considered the most sacred Buddhist building in all of Tibet, has been impressively restored in recent decades, making it nearly impossible for an untrained eye to detect what dates from the latter 20th century and what goes all the way back to 647, when Tibetan ruler Songstän Gampo initiated contstruction of this powerful symbol of Tibetan faith. That symbolic power has made it a flashpoint in recent unrest, and travelers should be conscious of the fact (if they somehow have managed the nearly impossible and are already not) that the temple is one of the most politically sensitive spots within the boundaries of today's People's Republic. As for the site's history, you're likley to hear two competitng tales explaining the choice of Jokhang's location. The first is that Songstän Gampo's Nepalese wife chose the most difficult place she could find to house the temple—the middle of a lake, which consequently had to be filled in before construction could begin. The second claims that his Chinese wife detected the presence of a resident demoness and had the temple be built atop the evil spirit to trap her underground. Whatever the reason, the site has been held as sacred by generations of Buddhists, and their accumulated reverence is almost palpable. The temple houses incredible statues and other works of art and all the regalia of Buddha worship. Pilgrims and monks chant and prostrate themselves (at least they do when tensions aren't running high). The intensity of their fervor strikes every visitor in a slightly different way, but none should doubt its authenticity—it's as real as it gets. Don't miss the spectactular views from the roof of Lhasa with Potala Palace looming in the distance.