China Travel

Heng Shan (Mount Heng), sometimes called Southern Heights Mountain (Nanyue Shan), is located about 120km south of Changsha. It is one of the five sacred Buddhist mountains in China, although much of the mountain is also dedicated to Taoist belief.

The mountain sprawls out for 80 kilometers or so and there are a total of 72 peaks in all, the highest of which, Wishing for Harmony Peak (Zhurong Feng), rises to 1,298 meters above sea level. It is a pretty area that quite popular (crowded), although charming Buddhist and Taoist temples, some dating back over 1000 years, and delightful scenery to make it worth your while.

At the foot of the mountain stands the largest temple in southern China, the Grand Southern Heights Temple (Nanyue Damiao), which is the largest group of ancient buildings in Hunan Province. It is thought that the original temple dated back as far as the Tang Dynasty (618-907 AD), although it has been destroyed by fire at various stages. The present temple dates back to the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911 AD) and is based on Beijing's Imperial Palace. There are nine courtyards, with the main hall at the center, at 22 meters high and supported by 72 stone pillars in tribute to the mountain's peaks. The temple, glazed in red and yellow, is linked with many other buildings and forms a grand palace complex.

If you want to climb Heng Shan, venture to a nearby village called Nanyue to begin your hike. The temples on the mountain are mostly charming and small, meaning that an ascent to the top, including visiting numerous temples, and a return to the village, should not take more than around 10hrs (i.e. a long day). The most interesting of the temples here is at the peak, the Wishing for Harmony Palace (Zhurong Gong), appreciated for its mystical appearance, often through the mist, and the charm of its solid stone walls and iron roof. Other temples definitely worth a visit include the Wishing for the Emperor Temple (Zhusheng Si), just out of the village, that was built for an unconsummated imperial visit by the Qing Emperor Kangxi, the Southern Terrace Temple (Nantai Si), that was built during the Yuan Dynasty (1279-1368 AD) and is regarded as the origin of a Buddhist branch in Japan and the Fangguang Temple (Fangguang Si), that is quiet and has some breathtaking views.