The first scenic stop on the Three Gorges cruise from Chongqing, Fengdu Ghost City is located on the slopes of Ming Mountain on the northern bank of the Yangtzi River. The name ostensibly refers to the temple-strewn mountainside complex higher up but could equally be talking about the now underwater town of old Fengdu itself, gone to a watery grave with the rising of the flood waters in 2009.

With a two thousand year history, the Fengdu Ghost City brings together Confucian, Taoist and Buddhist culture and a firm belief in the afterlife. Many famous literary works like Journey to the West, Apotheosis of Heroes and Strange Tales of a Lonely Studio contain vivid references to Fengdu.

Fengdu got its name as the Ghost City in the Eastern Han Dynasty when two officials from the imperial court, Yin Changsheng and Wang Fangping, decided to come to Ming Mountain to practice Taoist teachings. Through self-cultivation they became immortal. Combining their surnames gives you "Yinwang" which translates to "king of hell." Later, during the Tang Dynasty, a stupendous temple was erected on Ming Mountain depicting life in hell. It displays demonic images and torture devices and reflects the notion that good people will be treated well in the afterlife and that bad people will be punished by going to hell.

In the Chinese vision of the afterlife, the dead (or ghosts) must undergo three major tests to enter the netherworld. These tests are taken at three locations: Nothing-To-Be-Done-Bridge; Ghost Torturing Pass and the Tianzi (son of heaven) Palace. These three locations are among many attractions in the Ghost City.

Built during the Ming Dynasty, Nothing-To-Be-Done-Bridge connects the nether world with the real world and is a testing point for good and evil. According to legend, there are different protocols for crossing the bridge depending on your gender, age and marital status. Below the bridge are square-shaped pools of water. Virtuous people will pass over the bridge without obstacle; villainous people will fall into the pools below. Today tourists are told to choose which bridge to cross. The middle one grants true love, the one on the left represents long life, the third represents great wealth. Couples are supposed to join hands and to cross the bridge of their choice in nine steps.

Ghost Torturing Pass is the second test faced to determine entry to the nether world. Pass by the eighteen ferocious-looking demons to enter the structure where the dead await judgement by Yama, the King of Hell.

The Tianzi Palace is over 3000 years old and covers an area of nearly 2,908 square yards. Composed of a temple gate (paifang) and the palace itself, it is the nerve center of the Ghost City and the oldest and largest temple on Ming Mountain.

The third test and last chance to evade hell, here spirits must stand on one foot atop a large stone in front of the palace for three minutes--only the good will manage to complete the challenge, others will be sent to a hellish eternity in the underworld.

One other ghostly attraction in Fengdu worth mentioning is the Last-Glance at Home Tower. Built in 1985 it commemorates the site where spirits consigned to hell could take one last look at their families.

A major highlight here is the annual temple fair every March 3 - 5, featuring all kinds of folk activities and performances.