If the club scene at 1912 isn't your thing, Castle Bar (Gǔbǎo Shénqǔ Jiǔbā, 古堡神曲酒吧) is Nanjing's dive bar answer. This subterranean haunt looks a bit rough, but that's all part of the charm. Posters for upcoming and recent live acts line the halls and walls.

Even when no one's up on stage, the booze is still moving and the billiards and foosball still cracking. The foosball table requires an RMB 100 deposit for the ball (you'll get this back). With this, as with any change, you may need to be very persistent with the staff.

If the cleanliness of the bathroom has you concerned, just drop into the McDonald's next door.

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