Temples throughout Lijiang and the surrounding countryside are famed for their frescoes. Sadly, many of them are in poor condition, largely thanks to vandalism by overzealous Red Guards. Baisha, a charming Naxi town some 8 km (5 miles) north of Lijiang, is home to the best remaining frescoes, and the town is worth a visit on its other merits. Baisha, which was actually the capital of a Naxi kingdom prior to absorption into China, makes for a great day trip from Lijiang; most visitors arrive by bicycle after a pleasant ride that takes about an hour.

If you're looking for frescoes, head to Dabaoji Palace, Liuli Temple and Dading Ge. You'll find scenes depicting various figures and feats from Buddhist and Taoist lore, rendered in glorious—if often faded—colors. Aficionados will note the unique mix of Tibetan, Han and Naxi styles; amateurs can simply enjoy the images of various saints, demons and mythological creatures. When you're done, spend some time exploring Baisha, where you'll find relaxed locals (including, perhaps, the now-famous and outgoing Dr. Ho, known thanks to numerous mentions in travel guides as an expert Taoist physician), pleasant restaurants and tea houses (try Café Buena Vista for its refreshments, travel information and art gallery) and architecture reminiscent of Lijiang, but with fewer crowds.

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