China Travel

The ancient ruined city of Jiaohe (Jiaohe Gucheng) lies ten kilometers to the west of Turpan, situated on an island in the middle of river waters flowing throug the Yarnaz Valley—the name itself means "at the confluence of two rivers." Abandoned in the thirteenth century after Genghis Khan's Mongol hordes laid it waste, the ruins of this once-prosperous Silk Road city make for a fascinating day trip out of Turpan. The island rises some thirty meters above the surrounding desert and, along with the river waters, provided a natural defensive barrier against attacks; hence the city, unlike so many of its time, was built without a protective wall.  Founded some 2,000 years ago, the site retains clearly distinguishable temples, pagodas and other buildings, including a Buddhist monastery at the center of the city. Like many Silk Road cities, Jiaohe experienced ... more »

The ancient city of Gaochang is a sublimely impressive sight, likely to spur thoughts of the grand sweep of history and the insignificance of one little tourist standing in the middle of the vast desert, snapping digital photos of crumbling ruins that date back to the 1st century BC. Unless, of course, you visit at the same time as a huge Chinese tour group, in which case sublimity is likely a lost cause. Even then, Gaochang is worth a whirl, whether you walk or drop RMB 20 on a donkey cart from the entrance gate. At the center of the city, you'll find the remains of the old Buddhist monastery, covered in niches that each used to house a Buddha. Less well-preserved than Silk Road sister city Jiaohe, it's still a humbling and pleasant experience to wander the ruins beneath the clear desert sky, contemplating the transitory nature of being, the rise and fall of civilizations, and ... more »

The Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves (Bozikeli Qian Fo Dong) are on the northwestern side of the Flaming Mountains facing a river valley about 15 kilometers north of the ruins of the ancient city of Gaochang and 45 kilometers east of modern Turpan. These caves are one of the largest Buddhist grotto complexes in Xinjiang, with 77 shiku (caves carved to house Buddhist images) containing frescoes and statuary ranging from the naïve to the masterly. Unfortunately, the site has suffered waves of despoilment, whether from vandals and thieves, Muslims seeking to eliminate traces of Buddhism after Islam swept across Central Asia, overzealous Red Guards, or avaricious European explorer-archaeologists. The most notorious of the latter, Albert von Le Coq, removed a number of frescos from the walls of Bezeklik and sent them off to Berlin, where those that weren't destroyed by World Wa... more »

The Emin Minaret (Emin Ta), located just two kilometers east of Turpan, is a minaret built in 1778 by the local Muslim ruler, Emin Hoja. Also known as Sugong Tower (Sugong Ta) after Emin's Chinese name, the minaret was built in a simple Islamic style. It is circular, 44 meters in height, and 10 meters in diameter at the base. Unfortunately, the minaret is no longer open to the public in an effort to preserve the structure. However, you can view the surroundings from the roof of the mosque. Mosque services are held every Friday and on holidays. more »

The Flaming Mountains (Huo Yan Shan) get their name from the way the light reflects off the mountains red rocks and surrounding desert, especially toward sunset and sunrise—an impressive site for today's travelers, though one that might have filled ancient Silk Road merchants with trepidation, as little in these regions reminds one of the inhospitability of these dry lands as the sight of Flaming Mountains in full glory.  Situated on the northern edge of the Turpan Basin, and stretching for over 100 kilometers, this is an intensely hot part of the desert, with nary a blade of grass to be seen for miles. If you intend to spend time in the mountains, whether on rented camels, in a vehicle or even on foot, be prepared. Bring plenty of water, strong sunblock and wear a brimmed hat. The Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves are a good point of departure f... more »

Grape Valley (Putao Gou) stretches outside of Turpan toward the nearby Flaming Mountains. Turpan and its surrounding karez-fed agricultural lands are known for their fruit orchards and vineyards. By late summer, the grapes are ripe, making it is a wonderful time to visit. It's a pleasure to wander through the vinyards, shaded by fruit-laden trellises and surrounded by stark desert. After a few hours out and about in this unique landscape, you can sample the local wine at a local winery, whether the rich and dark port-like red or the lighter more fruity white. Turpan exports both wine and raisins, but they taste best at the source. If you're in town in August, try to make the grape festival, where song, dance, good food, wine and lots of happy visitors combine for a wonderful time under the clear desert skies.  Backed by the Flaming M... more »