China Travel

Along with the Great Wall, the Forbidden City is one of the must-see sites in Beijing. In the afternoon sunshine, the red walls and golden roof tiles cast a glow across the vast courtyards of this symbol of China's mighty imperial past. If pressed for time, try to spend at least half a day exploring; if you have more time, consider return trips—the Forbidden City's stately spaces and myriad treasures are best lingered over. Try to avoid weekends and holidays when crowds peak. If you're in a hurry, a tour guide can help you understand the significance of what you're seeing; if you have time, you might choose to explore on your own with a guidebook. The world's largest palace complex, the Forbidden City (Gugong or Zijincheng) covers 720,000 square meters (0.3 square miles). The southern Tiananmen Gate—one of four gates connecting the palace to the out... more »

Standing in the middle of Tian'anmen Square (Tian'anmen Guangchang), one is confronted with overwhelming representations of China's past and present powers-that-be, cast in an immense space that dramatizes China's modern history in spectacular fashion. On ground where the Emperor's high officials once did their business in classical courtyards and halls, one now finds the world's largest square, with Mao's Mausoleum, the Great Hall of the People and the Monument to the People's Heroes defining a space both austere and grand—and saturated with history and its ironies. The Forbidden City's outer entrance, the Gate of Heavenly Peace, stands at the north end, with Mao Zedong's immense portrait fixed to a gate that once admitted only those closest to Emperor and his court. Today, Mao's image looks down on throngs of tourists armed with cameras; scant decades ago, the livin... more »

Beihai Park lies just to the west of the Forbidden City, and, until 1925 it was considered part of the imperial complex and therefore off-limits to the masses. The heart of the park consists of three man-made bodies of water: Beihai, Zhonghai and Nanhai lakes; connected by the Jade Islet, all of which were created during the Jin Dynasty (1115-1234 AD), although the park's history as an imperial playground goes back even further to the Liao Dynasty (907-1125 AD). The 186-acre park has a number of excellent sights (some of which require an additional entrance fee), including the Yuan-era Jade Jar of Dushan in Tuan Cheng (the Round City), the striking Tibetan White Dagoba, the Painted Gallery, the Nine Dragon Screen, Daxitian (Heavenly King Temple), the Liulige Tower, Yong'an Temple and the Five-Dragon Pavilion.  Kublai Khan, the first Yuan emperor, made Tuan Cheng ... more »

Once you've seen the Forbidden City, where all but two of fifteen Ming emperors lived, take a trip out to their final resting place, the Ming Tombs (Shisan Ling or literally the Thirteen Tombs).  The third Ming emperor, Yongle (1402-1424) chose the site based on its excellent feng shui and the harmonic balance of wooded mountains to the north, rich dark earth and calm waters is as pleasant today as it must have been at the time when it was chosen as the last resting place of emperors.  Only three of the tombs are presently open to the public, though plans are afoot to excavate and open others. Covering a huge area, the tombs are located some 50 km (30 miles) northwest of the Beijing.  The approach to the tombs, known as the Spirit Way (shendao) presents visitors with the first of the numerous gates and arches that comprise the Confucian design, with eac... more »

An excellent expression of China's imperial spirit, the Summer Palace should be explored at leisure, even if it means setting aside a full day just to wander around soaking up the atmosphere. That said, if you're short on time, even a few hours exploring the halls, courtyards, pavilions, temples and wooded hillsides of this opulent lakeside retreat should prove a highlight of your Beijing visit. Today's Summer Palace (Yíhe Yuan or "Garden of Nurtured Harmony") owes a lot to late-imperial historical circumstance: after its predecessors, including the Old Summer Palace, were destroyed by marauding Anglo-French forces, first in 1860 (Second Opium War), and then again in 1900 (Boxer Rebellion). The Emperor Dowager Cixi, while presiding over the downfall of imperial China, made certain that its final years wouldn't go without a Summer Pa... more »

The Temple of Heaven (Tiantan), completed in 1420 during the reign of the Ming Yongle Emperor, was the most sacred space in which the emperor—also known as the Son of Heaven—performed the most important sacrifices and rites.  The gods of earth, water, war, and civilian affairs were all honored, but it was the god of agriculture who received special attention. On the winter solstice, the emperor, after ritual fasts and purification, would beseech Heaven for bountiful harvests.  The temple's layout reflects the Confucian worldview that anchored the imperial order. The square base represents Earth, the circular temple represents Heaven, and the emperor symbolically serves as intermediary between human beings and the divine order.  The most distinctive temple in the complex, and one of the most famous buildings in China is the Hall of Prayer for Good... more »

Only a 70 km (44 miles) drive from Beijing, Badaling is the most visited section of the Great Wall. Constructed during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644), Badaling underwent extensive reconstruction during the 1950s and 1980s and now features amenities that invading barbarians would certainly kill for, from cablecar rides to snack stands, caged bears, souvenir shops and restaurants, not to mention air-conditioned tour bus travel down the Badaling Expressway, which links this length of wall to the capital. With all the extras and the site's popularity, those seeking a less crowded and commercialized experiences may want to head further out to Simatai, Jinshanling or other spots. But for those on a tight schedule who want to get in a visit to a prime length of the Great Wall, Badaling makes for an excellent day trip. Despite all the commercial trappings and crowds, a walk along the Bada... more »

Fragrant Hills Park (Xiangshan Gongyuan) is located some 20 kilometers northwest of Beijing, not far from the Summer Palace. Though the name could easily refer to the area's relatively fresh air (for Beijing) and the scent of trees and flowers, it instead comes from the shape of the hills themselves. If you look closely, squint a bit and crank up your imagination, you might just make out the shape of a Chinese incense burner at the summit of the hills. If this image eludes you, you may be glad to know the park also goes by the "Garden of Congenial Tranquility," a name that better gets at the essence of this green refuge from the dusty grays of Beijing. That being said, it's less than tranquil on warm weekend days when congenial crowds flock to the park. Names aside, for great views (atmosphere permitting) take a chairlift or hike up "Incense Burner Peak" (Xiangl... more »

Yuanming Yuan, situated within the grounds of the Old Summer Palace, also known as the "Gardens of Perfect Clarity" and the "Garden of Gardens," served as a retreat for the imperial Qing court before it was leveled and looted by British and French troops under the command of James Bruce, the Earl of Elgin, in 1860 during the second Opium War.  Today it is a haunting but melancholy place, with the ruins only hinting at what was once a resplendent complex of fountains, gardens and a unique blend of Chinese and European architecture (the Emperor Qianlong had employed Jesuits in the design of many Western-style buildings).  The original imperial retreat, initiated in the early 1700s under Emperor Kangxi, consisted of three gardens: Yuanmingyuan, Changchunyuan (Garden of Eternal Spring) and Wanchunyuan, covering some 350 hectares. The southern part of... more »

Home to the biggest bell in China, the Great Bell Temple (Dazhong Si) was built in 1733 during the Qing Dynasty. The bell itself, known as the "King of Bells," was cast in 1405 during the rule of the Ming Emperor Yongle. More facts: the bell weighs a hefty 46.5 tons and is 6.75 meters tall. It's covered with Buddhist writings in Chinese and Sanskrit. It is rung 108 times—a lucky number—on special occasions such as the Chinese New Year.  If the facts aren't compelling enough for you, perhaps the legend behind this behemoth of a bell will be. The story goes that the emperor commissioned an old man to forge a huge bell. The man tried four times, but the mold cracked each time. At this point, the impatient emperor threatened to have the poor bell maker executed if he failed again. The bell maker's daughter, upon hearing this, did her filial duty and sacrif... more »