Some claim Shanghai ranks among the world's top food cities; others contend that the booming restaurant scene is more flash than substance. Whatever the case, it's a delicious question for which to seek an answer, and the fact alone that such an argument exists is telling. Shanghai residents—Chinese and expat alike—love to talk food as much as they love to eat it. And there's a lot to talk about: the best local street-side Shanghainese xiaolongbao or Xinjiang hand-pulled noodle shop; the place to find the tastiest Cantonese dim sum or fieriest Sichuan dishes; the best American burger joint; the most exquisite new fine-dining establishment. The list goes on and on.

So, Shanghai is a great place to eat and the choices are endless. Where to begin? Try starting with the city's own distinct cuisine. Shanghainese food offers sweeter flavors than other well-known regional Chinese cuisines, favoring use of vinegar, ginger, sugar and soy to create brown sauces for braising meats, stir-frying, dunking dumplings and flavoring seafood. Shanghainese cuisine can be quite greasy, with fried dumplings, fried long noodles, vegetables, poultry, pork and seafood, but it can also be delicate and light. Shanghai's proximity to rivers, lakes and the sea fills its markets with fresh shrimp, fish, eel, sea cucumbers and shellfish. Crab plays a starring role in early fall, when the regional river crab (or "hairy crab") is harvested and served across the city. Make sure to try the following local dishes:
 

• Xiaolongbao (steamed pork dumplings, sometimes known as "soup dumplings"). You can find these wonderful dumplings on street corners and in restaurants all over town. They're made with a thin dough wrapped around seasoned minced pork and a kind of gelatin which melts into a delicious juice (or "soup") as the dumplings steam. Be careful—the soup is scalding hot for minutes after steaming. Let your xiaolongbao cool, dip in vinegar, and carefully nibble a hole in it to suck out the soup before finishing it off. It's a good idea to support your xiaolongbao with a spoon as you bring it to your mouth with chopsticks. Line up with the masses for Shanghai's best-known xiaolongbao at Nanxiang Restaurant in Yu Gardens or try your luck at any number of small local eateries. 
   
• Locals love river crab (dazhaxie) season. The crabs are harvested around Chongming Island in the Yangzi River and Yangcheng Lake in Jiangsu Province during September and October. Boiled in large pots or cooked in a coating of flour or red sauce, river crabs make a tasty—and messy—meal. 
   
• Guotie (potstickers) are another Shanghai favorite. These fried dumplings contain a juicy pork filling, much like xiaolongbao. You can find guotie out on the street—look for vendors tending large, shallow frying pans—or in local restaurants. Greasy inside and out, some claim they're the ultimate hangover food.
   
• Shengjianbao are another soup-filled Shanghai treat. Stuffed like xiaolongbao with lightly spiced pork filling that sweats out a delicious juice during cooking, shengjianbao are fried in a large covered shallow pan (often alongside guotie). Browned to a crisp on the bottom, a thick mini-bun puffs out around the filling, resulting in a wonderful combination of textures. The perfect shengjianbao is crispy, soft, and slightly chewy, the pork inside floating in "soup." Again, be careful not to burn your tongue.

Shanghai is also a great place for food from around China. You can get fiery Hunanese ribs at Dishuidong, Xinjiang lamb kebobs and flat breads at Afanti, filling Northern fare at Dongbeiren, Cantonese dim sum at Crystal Jade, Beijing Duck at Ya Wang, Hotpot at Hotpot King on Huaihai Lu—and much, much more. Take a look at our growing index of the best the city has to offer. In between meals, snack at one of Shanghai's several food streets—try Yunnan Nan Lu, Huanghe Lu or Wujiang Lu.
 

For a break from Chinese food, the city is also home to excellent Thai, Japanese, French, German, Spanish, American, and Indian restaurants, among other international options. Try reasonably priced Italian at Da Marco, Thai at Baan Thai, Spanish and Vietnamese at Le Garcon Chinoise or all-you-can-eat Teppanyaki at Tairyo. For a special night out, you can find some of the city's best high-end dining (and views) along the Bund—splurge at M on the Bund, Laris, the Whampoa Club or Jean-Georges.