Nanjing is a far older city than its glamorous neighbor Shanghai, a fact that is reflected in its relatively relaxed pace, calm atmosphere and wealth of historical Sights & Attractions. Though thoroughly modern in many aspects, Nanjing is more conservative in many respects than Shanghai or Beijing, which for travelers means that the A&E scene can be a bit elusive relative to showboating Shanghai or Olympics-happy Beijing. The city's Festivals & Events calendar is also well worth noting—give Nanjing a chance and you'll find its people know how to have a good time as well as anyone in China.
Bars & Clubs
There are plenty of good nightspots scattered about town—and, thanks in part to a large student population, many of them are quite affordable. The students and a young workforce form a natural population of partiers in Nanjing, though it may sometimes seem most of them are studying or working overtime—Nanjing doesn't have the 24-hour party mindset of nearby Shanghai. That said, weekends can be happening and there's always something going on somewhere. If you're craving beats and a dance floor, the Castle Bar in the Drum Tower complex is a good bet, as are Scarlet's and Rick's. Behind the Wall and Blowing in the Wind are good for low-key drinks and conversation, and the area west of the Drum Tower between Nanjing University and Nanjing Normal University makes for pleasant bar hopping. The entertainment complex Nanjing 1912 is worth a visit, too—it's the city's take on Shanghai's Xintiandi, a sort of renovated historical-commercial theme mall well populated by international chains. For a nice change of pace and taste of local culture, check out the riverside teahouses in the vicinity of Fuzi Miao (Confucius Temple).
Performing Arts
The performing arts scene is surprisingly slack given the city’s size, history and proximity to Shanghai, but things appear to be picking up. Jiangsu Province Kun opera and Kungqu theater remain popular and well supported in Nanjing, with the Jiangsu Province Kun Opera company and others keeping the tradition alive with performances at Fuzi Miao (Confucius Temple). The universities and Nanjing College of Art often sponsor visiting performers. Large pop concerts are staged at Wu Tai Shan Stadium, though at present they're generally limited to Chinese, Korean and Taiwanese acts.
Museums & Galleries
Nanjing is a great city for history buffs, boasting a fine ensemble of museums that complement the city's rich store of historical sights. The Nanjing Museum is a great place to start, featuring a fine collection of Chinese artifacts going back some 3,000 years. Two of Nanjing's most violent and destructive periods have their own museums. The Taiping Heavenly Kingdom History Museum relates the events of the bloody and bizarre mid-nineteenth century uprising of the Taiping who claimed Nanjing as the capital of their Heavenly Kingdom for nearly a dozen years; the Nanjing Massacre Memorial and Museum commemorates the brutal Japanese occupation during World War II. As for the arts scene, a number of small galleries and the presence of the Nanjing College of Art promise a bright future though the present scene pales alongside Beijing or Shanghai. Nanjing's conservative side is on display at galleries like the huge Yilanzhai Art Gallery, which distinctly favors the traditional over the contemporary.
Festivals & Events
If you're in town at the right time, it's worth checking out some of Nanjing's traditional festivals. Try the Jinling Lantern Show and mass City Wall Walk just after the Chinese New Year, the Plum Blossom Festival held at nearby Meihua Shan (Meihua Mountain) at the end of February, or the Plum Blossom Festival or the springtime Shangsi Festival (on the lunar calendar) or late March Cherry Blossom Festival in Xuanwu Park.